Catch no longer clutch

Not sure how I came to know Catch in Winchester. Maybe a Globe review, perhaps Chowhound? Nevertheless Adgurl and I had dined there happily no fewer than three times before our last visit for my Birfday, back in November.

I've always had high regard for Catch. Fresh, seasonal, local menu focus with a distinct, disciplined approach. AG and I got into the habit of booking the chef's "table", in this case a dining bar right in front of the kitchen. I like watching a pro staff execute great cuisine.

Catch's kitchen talent is quiet, mechanical and adept. Precise. Professional. Focused.

This visit, it finally caught up to them.

Chef Chris Parsons was not present. But that was not the problem. It's obvious he has a well trained crew.

The problem was that everything came to us cold. We were within arms reach of the kitchen and our food was consistently served lukewarm, at best. Now-- I do not expect the cooking staff to serve us. And the server staff was right on delivery. It's the ventilation system and the lack of big ovens to create ambient heat. Catch doesn't have it. It's a small space. The meticulous care that the kitchen staff puts into saucing, garnish and finish takes time off the plate. From fire to plate is excrutiating in its precision; leading to a loss of lots of heat.

I also broke my golden rule: never order a lobster dish unless I'm at a lobster shack. Period.

I ordered the lobster dish. It was a supposed to be a multi-flavored, textured entree that was neither. Petite meatballs, lobbie thumbs, foam (did I order foam??).. and lukewarm.

I was sad. We really dig this place, but it's a bit of a haul. I should call chef and point him to this review. My guess is that he'll listen.

In the meantime, try Catch yourself and let me know what you think.